Landing in Cairo is like landing in beautiful chaos. It’s truly where ancient echoes meet modern beats.
From the moment I left the airport, the paradoxical charm surrounded me. It is both ancient and modern, progressive and traditional, overstimulating and utterly charming. The air around me was humid and sweet but breezily cool; a respite from Riyadh’s summer swelter. As my driver took me to my apartment that would be my home for four weeks, we flew down the wide highway in the rhythm of the chaotic traffic which was a curious harmony between drivers with no lane discipline. It somehow just works. I watched out the window as we passed huge housing blocks clothed in clean laundry hung to dry, beautiful mosques, stunning churches with intricate architectural details; the real Egypt that travel guides and bloggers never show you but exudes the warmth of Cairo as home to millions of Egyptian people.
Traveling to Cairo challenged my paradigm on Egypt and how it is reflected in history, on social media, and even cinema. While the pyramids are a marvel and the Grand Museum is a breathtaking exploration of ancient history, Cairo has a much more personal story to tell, one rooted in the paradox of ancient versus modern and encourages the savvy and curious mind to take in both sides. So here are my top five recommendations to experience both sides of Cairo and both live in and extend beyond the tourist bubble.
Must-Dos
Book tour packages. To get the most out of the tourist sites and to get some special privileges, book a half day, full day, or multi-day tour package. Over two days, I was able to see all of Cairo’s most beloved sites with a personal Egyptologist to explain it all. I used Tarzan Egypt Tours on TripAdvisor to arrange everything. Ahmed is kind, accommodating, punctual, well connected to the operators at the sites and provides full transportation services.
Eat koshari at Egypt’s famous Abu Tareq. This is Egypt’s most beloved street food. It’s delicious, filling, authentic, and inexpensive. Skip the tourist traps around the pyramids and sites. The restaurants are tasty, but deeply overpriced. Their target market is the tourist.
Explore Coptic Egypt. Visit the Hanging Church and see where many Christians believe the Holy Family hid as they were fleeing through Egypt. There are stunning relics and original texts and tapestries on display.
Book an apartment and get out of the hotel bubble. My apartment was in a neighborhood compound area of Cairo. I went to the neighborhood market, fruit sellers, pharmacies and lived amongst the Egyptians during my time there. It added a tremendous richness to my experience.
Visit Khan AlKhalili for souvenirs. It’s sensory overload, but worth the experience. While in the Gamaliya District, pay attention to all of the sites that are somewhat easy to overlook on Almoez Street from the ancient Roman and Ottoman periods. There is a Roman bathhouse, breathtaking architecture, mausoleums of historical and religious figures, and ancient Islamic schools to explore that tells the story of Cairo’s expansive and extremely diverse history. A short Uber ride will also take you to Mohammad Ali Pasha Palace to explore the ornate home and grounds of this Ottoman era ruler.
Travel Tips, Tricks and Hacks
- Ride a camel at the pyramids. Just do it.
- Be sure to visit Saqqara. I found it immensely better than the Great Pyramids and even got to go into the Pyramid of Djoser known as the Step Pyramid.
- Be careful of the well-meaning Egyptians around the sites that try to “help” even by taking a photo for you; they expect payment and are relentless in getting that payment.
- Avoid tourist sales traps like visits to the papyrus shops and oil factories. They price their products for the tourist, not the value of the product.
- Take an Egyptian with you, if possible, to assist in purchasing at a souq. They typically get a much better price negotiating with their fellow countryman than a typical tourist will get. It’s also extremely helpful to have a translator.
- Bear in mind that Egyptians and foreign tourists typically pay two different ticket or entry prices to museums and other sites. Keep this in mind when budgeting.
- Be sure your Uber driver keeps the trip 100% in Uber. If they want to cancel the trip or bargain cash, politely apologize and book another Uber.
- Chat up the Egyptian people. They are super friendly and warm. They will sometimes do things for people you wouldn’t get elsewhere that will bring a lot of wow to your trip. I was able to climb an ancient tower and look out over Old Cairo with a view very few would see just because I took the time to chat with and befriend a gentleman at one of the little museums on Almoez Street.
- Arrive early for your departure flight. The airport experience can be daunting with multiple layers of security and little organization.
Reflecting on my trip to Egypt, I have nothing but lovely memories. Before arriving, I had little notion of what life in Egypt really was. After living for a brief time amongst them, I found Egypt to be not only full of life, but extremely captivating. The battle of ancient versus modern is alive in the heartbeat of everyday life from the donkey drawn carriages of the farmers of Giza to the hustle bustle of Cairo’s nightlife. To see it through the lens of strictly a tourist would do yourself a disservice. Cairo must be lived and breathed to be appreciated in all its glory. Add it to your travel life; you won’t regret it.
How To Get There
The 2.5 hour flights to and from Cairo are inexpensive and multiple times per day with Flynas and Flyadeal.
What To Prepare
Tourists from most Western countries can get a visa on arrival. For those needing a visa, be sure you give enough time for the Egyptian authorities to process it.
What To Bring
Sunscreen, sunglasses, hats, and modest clothing
Must-Have
Cash is the best form of payment. Be prepared with Egyptian pounds or be prepared to exchange cash. Never go anywhere without cash in small bills.
What to Bring Home
Khan Alkhalili has beautiful handmade leather goods at excellent prices which make good souvenirs and gifts. This bazaar also has every souvenir you could possibly want. Souvenirs around the tourist sites are significantly more in cost.
