BY Arlen Gargagliano
A recent fixture to the city’s gustatory landscape, Takya shines more than just a new kid on the block! Riyadh’s newly opened and highly-acclaimed restaurant captures the heart of Saudi cooking and translates it into contemporary fusion cuisine and an exciting experience.
The floor to ceiling glass windows that surround the entrance open up to the clean lines and traditional-meets-modern design of Takya; the aromas—sweet and woody, without being overwhelming—draw you in. The soundtrack, which features music from all over the country, offers the perfect acoustic backdrop. The 120-seat high-ceilinged restaurant “breathes” and “embraces.” Details abound; the open kitchen faces a backlit simple yet elegant gold single-lined illustration which is reminiscent of Peru’s Nazca lines, that touts the symbols of the different regions of the kingdom. The ambience will pull you in, and the food will keep you. Takya is an experience.
Founder Hadeel Al Motawa, along with co-founders Nada Al Qasabi and Hissah Al Motawa, share their passion for food and flavors—and their country–in their new “baby,” which opened in mid-July of 2019. Nada Al Qasabi and I recently met, along with Hadeel on the phone, to discuss the germination of this restaurant seed. Nada told me about her partners—sisters Hadeel and Hissa—and how it all came about. “Why not have the Saudi cuisine in a more modern way?” Nada asks rhetorically as she describes their thinking. Hadeel explains the thinking behind Takya’s evolution. She describes how they wanted to introduce diners, especially younger Saudis who may not have been familiar with traditional Saudi food of regions other than their own, to the delight of the country’s cuisine.
“Let’s make it less complicated and introduce it to others. We keep it authentic and use local ingredients,” Hadeel elaborates on the elements they considered.
The result, thanks to the many grandmothers they visited around the country who shared their kitchens and secrets—along with input from Chef Altaf Shaikh, is an extraordinary mélange of Saudi fusion, with a smattering of international influences as well.
Their mission, apparent in their restaurant and menu design, has been achieved and is reflected in everything from drinks to desserts. The menu begins with the drinks, inventive in both name and content. The beverages are light and flavorful yet not overly sweet; they are gorgeous in both color and taste. Delicate Rose, for example, boasts the flavors of rose, pomegranate and cardamom, while Najd Breeze combines lavender, lemon and ginger. And there are many more to sample! Then there’s the food. Starting with orange marmalade-kissed, locally-sourced olives, served with a basket of five types of bread, and finishing with a labna dill dip – the balance of taste, texture and color. Details—including the sufra, classic Saudi palm woven placemats, also provide the integration of classic and modern design.
The menu, which indicates each dishes’ geographic origins as well as whether it’s gluten free, nut containing and/or vegetarian status, is clear. As it additionally declares, the dishes are meant to be shared.
With a choice of apps and salads, the menu includes a delightful array of dishes which is intriguing without being too overwhelming. Takya’s mission is apparent in all the listings. And though it’s not overwhelming, dazzling dishes make it tough to decide!
You might want their version of Mathlutha, smoked rice and broken durum wheat balls, stuffed with cracked black lime and red chili, rolled in qursan bread and served with harissa garlic sauce, and/or their Cheese Motabaq: three cheeses baked in flaky filo with sundried tomatoes and a citrus tomato marmalade.
Perhaps you and your guests would enjoy the Pumpkin Date Salad, which includes the sweetness of roasted pumpkin and dates; artfully balanced with mixed greens, fried goat cheese, crispy black quinoa and caramelized pecans topped with a date vinaigrette.
The menu goes on to include a variety of protein treats ranging from oven-baked camel bone marrow with thyme, served with a fatut garlic bread, date chutney and fried onions; to main dishes like Shrimp Muflag, a Saudi-style paella, and a luscious, fall off the bone-cooked Lamb Hasawi rice and so much more. For a sweet finish, there’s a Kleeja Tart and Sagodona and much more to delight your eye and palate.
As Hadeel states, “We wanted our menu to reflect the differences in Saudi and to have the opportunity to educate some while offering great nostalgia to others.”
A visit to Takya will confirm: the experience is delightful. Takya very much looks forward to welcoming guests back once we resume our normal schedules.
Photo credit to Hachem Photography
Takya Saudi Fusion Food
2874 Prince Abdulaziz Ibn Musaid Ibn Jalawi Street, 8565 As Sulimaniyah, Riyadh, 12234Tel: +966 550402000
Email: nada@TAKYA.sa
Website: (In progress) www.TAKYA.sa
