As the weather gets cooler and more enjoyable, skin concerns tend to flare. To answer your common skin care questions, we’ve turned to an expert.
Skincare social media gurus and the growing number of products available with varying claims have made taking care of our skin more and more confusing. To discuss our burning questions with regards to skincare, we had the opportunity to sit with Dr. Juhainah AlJababili, dermatology specialist since 2002. From the most common skin conditions to the various active ingredients in our creams and products, Dr Juhainah shared with us her professional opinion.
What are some of the most common skin concerns that bring patients to your clinic?
Skin conditions across the Middle East are often similar with the lack of humidity in our weather causing skin dryness in adults, and making eczema in children and the elderly difficult to treat. Hyperpigmentation with patches of uneven skin tone and acne are also some of the most common causes of patient visits to the dermatology clinics.
It seems like acne, dry skin, and uneven skin tones are the three most common skin concerns here. How do you recommend handling them?
Many studies have been issued about acne and the causes of acne, and because it is caused by a mixture of many factors, we cannot stop it by using any ordinary soap or creams. For acne in anyone over 16 years of age, I would recommend visiting a doctor and treating it very seriously from the beginning with oral medicines if needed.
For those who have sensitive skin and dryness, you should avoid using ordinary soap. I recommend using oil-based shower gels and cleansers that are specified for dry skin. This will not remove the naturally existing oil on your skin and stop your skin from becoming extra dry. I also recommend using Vaseline after shower – especially on the elbows, knees, feet, and the top of your forearm – for people with normal skin type. For the face, use a proper moisturizer based on your skin type.
People with uneven skin tone should apply sunblock. It is very important, especially in the Middle East, as the sunlight is strong even in winter. Using a good quality sunscreen that has an SPF 50+ is the most important part of protecting yourself from uneven skin tone. Over the counter Vitamin C is a very safe and good option for improving your pre-existing uneven skin tone also.
There are skincare products that have active inbgredients in them that are popularized and became on trend in recent years, kindly share your opinions on them.
Aloe Vera Gel
Aloe vera gel is very helpful to soothe the skin and anyone with sensitive skin, dryness or redness can benefit from it. It’s also very good for hair growth. If it’s possible to have a plant in your house and grow it, you can cut it and use it while it’s fresh, that would be best!
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid has the property of absorbing water, so it can soothe the skin and leave it feeling plump. This is very good for people with mixed skin types such as those with acne but also rough patches of dry skin.
Toners, Face Scrubs, Chemical Exfoliants
I don’t recommend toners to my patients at all, especially here in Riyadh, because most of them struggle with dry skin. As toners alter the pH of the skin, it makes the skin drier and it removes the naturally existing oil on the surface. As for scrubs, it is good to use scrubs once a week and not more as it is helpful to remove the dead skin. If you use it wisely, such as following up the scrub with a good moisturizer, it will play a good role in helping absorb your creams better. As for chemical exfoliants, although the medicated ones contain high concentrations of the active ingredients and require doctor’s supervision, most of the products that are available over-the-counter at pharmacies or online are safe for use at home. So Glycolic acid at 5-15% is safe to use as a mild exfoliant to revitalize the skin, remove the dead cells and give you a more radiant, glowing effect. Higher concentrations are used for rough elbows and rough knees to make them more soft and smooth. Salicylic acid is mainly used for acne prone, greasy skin, and lactic acid is mainly mixed with emollients and body lotions because it will make the skin feel velvety and smooth.
Vitamin Serums
Vitamin A and its derivatives such as retinol are very good and very helpful for anti-aging routines, especially if it is combined with Vitamin C and Vitamin E. They will play a good role in maintaining elasticity of the skin and enhance the collagen that links your skin surfaces. I recommend using anti-aging products for ages 33-35.
Retinol can be very drying and irritating so do the treatment every other night, and when the skin starts to tolerate the cream, you can use it everyday. Start gradually and then we will tailor according to the patient’s case. During this time, stop using harsh cleansers, cleanse only once a day and apply sunblock and moisturizer at daytime.
Vitamin B5, also called Niacinamide, is good for skin healing because it is an antioxidant. Mixing it with Vitamin E, derivatives of vitamin A such as retinol and Vitamin C are good for skin radiance, rejuvenation, and healing from hyperpigmentation.
Caffeine
Caffeine is very good for dark hollows around the eyes. Caffeine is also mixed with other body lotions to reduce and minimize the appearance of cellulite if you massage it in well.
Any additional advice for our readers?
People don’t understand how bad smoking is for the skin. Of course, smoking cessation is the goal but for those struggling to stop smoking, I advise them to use Vitamin C products as it is good for the collagen synthesis. Whether they eat more Vitamin C-rich meals, supplements or apply it to their skin, it minimizes the bad effects of smoking on the skin.
We hope the next time you’re in the skincare aisle while shopping, you are able to utilize the information we gathered above and create a skin care routine most beneficial to your unique skin care needs!
Dr. Juhainah AlJababili
Cosmetic Dermatologist
Malesa Clinic
3232 Saeed Bin Khalid Street,
Northern Maathar, Riyadh
Instagram: @juhainah68